Per Se, the highly touted Thomas Keller restaurant in NYC, one of the hardest restaurant to make reservations for in NYC (perhaps the entire US, along with his Napa restaurant French Laundry), was . . . . . . disappointing.
Granted, the food was good, and the decor beautiful (serene almost, sort of like a hidden paradise in the middle of all the hustling and bustling of the Big Apple, elegant is perhaps another word to describe it), and the service very attentive, but it just does not live up to the standard and the hype of having to go through mountains to get reservations, and also not for something that cost $240 per person including tips just for food.


The evening started off pretty well, we arrived at 9:30pm on a Friday night, and the decor was very elegant I though, with a hint of Asian modern touch. We were lead past a very well designed wine cellar (I would love to put one of these wine cellars in my own apartment one of these days when I am very rich and my apartments is very big) to a lounging / bar area where each table of guests have their own section to sit around, order drinks, before they finish setting up the table for us. We ordered two glass of Dr. Loosens Riesling Kabinett to pass the time while waiting for our friends, and the wine was . . . . pretty horrible, kind of tasted like sugar water with no purpose of being there, while being charged $13 per glass, but then, I wasn't expecting too much when I ordered this wine anyway, and it was not Per Se's fault. The menu was simple, only three options, the 7 Course Menu, the 9 Course Chef's Tasting Menu and also the 9 Course Vegetable Tasting Menu (right . . ., I am going to spend $210 for veggie . . . very smart choice indeed). We all choose the 9 Course Chef's Tasting Menu, with the $30 supplement to add foie gras to our list of options. Let's just run down the courses:
(1) Oysters and Pearls - Sabayon of Pearl Tapioca with Island Creek Oysters and Russian Sevruga Caviar
Good dish to begin our dining experience. I like the combination of oysters and the pearl tapioca sauce mixed together. The caviar added quite a lot of saltiness into the mix, but I thought the combination was creative, the oysters tasted integrated into the dish. The portion was small but a good start to wet your appetite for more exciting dishes to come.
(2) Terrine of Moulard Duck Foie Gras - Quince "Coulis", Marcona Almond "Crumble", Flowering Quince Relish and Frisee Salad with Toasted Brioche
Thumbs up for this dish. The terrine of foie gras is one of the finest I have ever tasted. Most of the time, I prefer seared foie gras a much more than terrine of foie gras, just because well made seared foie gras often melt in your mouth like smooth butter, with a texture of creaminess and richness that cannot be compared with any other food in the world. Terrine of foie gras often does not achieve the same kind of sensation and falls flat as being cold, chunky. with a raw animal taste that many of my friends do not appreciate. However, this was different, completely different. The foie gras tasted so fine, like little tiny pieces of magic that through some miraculous reasons, were forged together, which, once you put into your mouth, melts away into its individual little pieces. Like a seared foie gras, it was buttery, it was creamy and rich, with a hint of sweetness that works beautifully. The toasted brioche was wonderful too, I keep on chowing down on them. Again, wonderful dish that raised my expectations of good things to come.
(3) Sauteed Fillet of Mediterranean Rouget - Confit of La Ratte Potatoes, "Haricots Verts", Yellow Wax Beans, Nicoise Olive "Rounds" and "Creme d'Ail Doux"
This dish is where things started to turn a little wrong. The fillet is dry, with a hint of a certain foul taste in your mouth, which, if eaten with creme d'Ail Doux, will disappear. It was strange why a chef will create a certain dish that, if you just eat the fillet by itself, tasted rather disastrous, but only with the accompanied sauce, will the fillet become livelier. Did Keller created this on purpose?
(4) "Fricassee" of Nova Scotia Lobster "Mitts" - Apple Wood Smoked Bacon "Lardons", Hen-of-the-Woods Mushrooms, Glazed Pearl Onions and "Sauce Homard au Vin"
The lobster was plain and did not stand out, especially after the previous dish, this dish did not save the feeling of the evening spiral downhill. However, the saving grace of this dish is the extremely delicious Hen-of-the-Woods Mushrooms. I mean, oh my, didn't know mushroom can taste this good. Usually, I HATE mushrooms, but obviously, that depends on the variety of the fungus that is served to me, as some mushrooms I will tolerate, but most of them NO WAY. This mushroom is a surprise, it is tender, emits a wonderful aroma that carries into your mouth. However, the mushroom is not the main feature of this dish, and does not seem to work or integrate with the lobster.
(5) "Rillettes" of Hallow Farm's Rabbit - White Wine Poached Asian Pear, Parsnip "Puree", Field Mizuna and Rabbits "Jus"
Differing opinions on this dish. The girls did not like it, thought it was too salty. The guys enjoyed it, tender, soft, flavorful, and perhaps the best rabbit I ever had. I thought the purpose of the Asian pear is to tone down the saltiness of the dish, and created a nice, harmonious balance for the entire dish. However, after the two lackluster dishes that were served previously, the rabbit just seems too little to uplift the energy at the table.
(6) Snake River Farm's "Calotte de Boeuf Grillee" - Crispy Bone Marrow, Braised Swiss Chard, Black Winter Truffle and Turnip "Gratin" with "Sauce Perigourdine"
Apparently the Boeuf Grillee is a cross between Kobe and Black Angus, which means it has the texture of the latter with the rich taste of the Kobe. It was delicious, as the meat is tender and rich, cooked just right and melts away like butter in your mouth. Nonetheless, beef dishes tend not to impress me as much, as the main factor in deciding whether the dish will turn out well or not, is the meat itself. By using quality ingredients, little garnish, sauce or other ingredients are required to bring out the flavor of the beef. You can actually try it out yourself. Go to your corner store and buy a random piece of steak, then go to a gourmet grocery store and purchase the finest steak they have. Go home, season with salt and pepper, coat with olive oil, then grill or sear it. Then, without adding anything else, taste the two, the difference is amazing. Not to take away from anything Thomas Keller is presenting here. This is a fine dish, but not a dish that impresses and blow me away, especially not after not foie gras, or even the rabbit that I just enjoyed.
(7) Cato Corner Farm's "Hooligan" - per se Coleslaw, Caraway Seed "Tuile"
Cheese . . . I started to really enjoy cheese in the last couple of months and tasted several that are quite delicious. This one is good, with mild flavors that didn't really stands out for me. The coleslaw, tasted better than regular coleslaw, but did not stand out.
(8) Blood Orange Sorbet - Blood Orange "Supremes", Orange "Pain de Genes" and Yogurt Cream
I alway loved blood orange sorbet and I can eat this everyday for dessert. I enjoyed the blood orange sorbet offered here too, but I expect more. I expect the dessert to be creative, to be different, otherwise, why should I spend that much money, go through all these trouble, to come here. Also, this blood orange sorbet is about on the same par as the one served at Craft.
(9) "Snickers Bar" - Milk Chocolate "Cremeux", Chocolate "Sacher" and Salted Caramel "Gelee" with Spanish Peanut "Nougatine" and Nougat Ice Cream 
This is what I am talking about, creativity, beautiful dish, harmonious flavors that works. This is their so called de-constructed Snickers Bar. It contains all the ingredients in a snickers bar (obviously higher quality ingredients), but laid out in different ways on the dish. It works wonderfully, and I find myself become quite taken with the ability to form the taste I want in my mouth. Perhaps this is one of the best desserts (in terms of appearance, creativity and taste) I have ever enjoyed.
(10) "Mignardises"
Some parting flavors, including different truffles and macaroons, presented in an elegant manner. Good, not great.
So eventually, this is 10 course in total, and took us a little over 3 hours to enjoy. Perhaps it is because our reservation is at 9:30pm and we all worked on Friday, perhaps the wine added in the factor as well, but it was quite an exhausting experience. The food was uneven, some disappointing, some worked well, but did not stand out, while some were excellent. Perhaps the main problem with the tasting menu is that, there does not seem to be continuity from one dish to another, the previous dish does not relate or provide a transition to the next dish, no correlation. There are just no "WOW" factors involved in this experience (perhaps the expectation is too high?) I remember going to Buchon, Thomas Keller's bistro in The Venetian in Las Vegas, and I was "WOW"ed by the perfectly cooked duck, the tenderness of that dish, the way the skin of the duck remains crispy while the meat was tender, juicy, and melts away in your mouth. Per Se lacks the "WOW" factor . . . excepts perhaps I was "WOW"ed by the beautifully constructed wine cellar and the space, and perhaps a little bit by the foie gras . . . but not much else. Given that it was about $300 per person, and needs 2 months in advance reservation, it did not live up to the standard. I rather spend $200 more for $500 a person, and go to Masa instead, as I was often “WOW”ed by the food in about every 10 mins in Masa than the entire time I was here in Per Se. Masa offers, I think, the best food in New York City, and the two times I went, the food was consistently amazing.

